Chair Peak 6238 ft

Northeast Buttress

January 11, 2003

"I do not seek to follow in the footsteps of those who went before me, I seek the things they sought. "

The weather last week was stellar, so Michael, Aidan and I took this opportunity to climb the NE Buttress of Chair Peak. Of course with such perfect conditions, we weren't alone! We pulled into the Alpental parking lot a little after 6am and we were the 8th car! But as it turned out, only two other parties ended up climbing the NE Buttress.

Aidan took the first pitch which was a bit thin in places and did an awesome job leading it. We had 6 ice screws on our rack, but we ended up using nuts, cams, pins, and pickets far more than ice screws. I took the second pitch which turned into a long 300 ft simul-climb to the base of a really cool waterice step. Michael lead this third pitch with no problem. He brought Aidan and I up to a "creative" gear anchor. Aidan took the last pitch and we ended up simul-climbing to below the summit.

The other parties had already topped out and descended so we had the summit to ourselves. Clouds were blowing in and out around the valley and we would briefly have incredible views. Aidan spotted the Seattle skyline far off in the distance. But we knew a weather front was coming in so we quickly ate our summit-chocolate, took some photos, and descended. Thanks guys for a great day in the mountains!

After playing a basketball game, going to a party, and getting 4 hours sleep...

In winter, a beard can increase warmth and eliminate the need for a balaclava, thus saving weight.

Michael starting the steep beginning on the third pitch.

Michael surmounting the difficult water ice step on the third pitch, thus securing our conquest of the summit!

Michael and Aidan, descending from the summit peak.

Aidan and Michael downclimbing to the notch where we rappelled the steep gully

We had nice views of the Tooth and Bryant.

After climbing a peak in the winter, men of old would reward themselves with a cool, refreshing Henry Weinhard's Root Beer. And their sheer joy was obvious to all.

Michael's report and some great photos are here.