Spring Rock Climbing
on the Sunshine Wall at Frenchman Coulee
March 20, 2004
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Today Michael, Kim and I drove over to Frenchman Coulee and made what is believed to be the first Spring ascent
of Chossmaster in 2004. Of course, we were all very pleased with our accomplishment, but it wasn't without risk or
near peril. By a hair's breadth we avoided a high speed car accident on I-90 just before Ellensburg when a pickup cutoff a small
compact car and sent it swerving out of control into our lane. Michael (Andretti) adeptly engaged the ABS and steered around
the spinning car as it passed in front of us and came to rest in the median. Michael stopped and walked back to see
if they were ok and then gave them a hand pushing their car out of the soft gravel.
With that excitement behind us, we were now faced with just a boring day of rock climbing. Ho hum. ;)
We were the first car at the main parking area, although there were a handful of people car camping nearby. We made
the short hike to the Sunshine Wall and Michael recommended "Chossmaster" (5.7) for our warm up. I led it in one long pitch,
with about 38 quickdraws. (I think it was actually about half that) Kim followed with a rope in tow that we brought Michael up on.
It's always a challenge to keep the belay 'neat and tidy' with three people, but we managed. We rapped down then Michael started
in on getting his 'crack fix' with a great led of "Tangled up in Blue" (5.9), a strenuous climb for the grade (IMHO). I followed it
and was glad that I wasn't the one who led it! Kim decided to pass on the hand-jam-fun so we moved down to "Vantage Point" (5.8),
which Kim and I climbed. Michael then led "Crossing the Threshold" (5.8), a fun stemmy-semi-crack climb and Kim followed it.
By this time more people were showing up and while I was sneaking cheese and pepperoni from Michaels pack I looked up and saw
Theron and two of his friends who were headed down to "Peaceful Warrior". We chatted for awhile then said "ciao!". Kim and Michael
walked around instead of rappeling so I had a lot of time to rummage through their packs and eat all their good food.
I lead the classic "Twin Cracks" (5.8) (aka "Party in Your Pants") to finish the day. Michael followed it and was amazed and
in awe of my solid hex placements.