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A Weekend in Leavenworth

April 25-27, 2003


Theron's trip report and some great photos are here!. Michael's trip report and some great photos are here!.

To celebrate Kris' birthday, Kris and Michael rented a cabin in Leavenworth and invited a bunch of us over for the weekend for some birthday cake and a little climbing!

Michael and I got up early Saturday morning for a Dawn Patrol and we ended up climbing Canary, the classic 3 pitch climb on Castle Rock. Michael took the first pitch and did a great job leading the various rock encountered: thin crack, face, slab, hand crack, roof, face. I, on the otherhand, having been away from the rock too long, slipped while trying to traverse out from under the roof and ended up falling. Falling scares the heck out of me, even on top rope, so after reaching the belay on my 2nd try I encouraged Michael to take the 2nd pitch. It was a chilly morning and we waited for about 10 minutes on the large ledge while I blew on my fingers to get them warmed back up.

Michael moving out onto the face from his first piece of protection
7:30am, Michael is definitely a 'morning' person!

Even with the prescribed #4 Friend for protection, a fall at the beginning of the second pitch is not something one wishes to experience. Even if you miss the hitting the ledge, you're looking at a good 15 foot pendulum back underneath the roof. And then you would have to re-climb the crux of the 1st pitch. But fortunately there are good holds for this fun, exposed pitch.

Michael steps across onto the roof
Having stepped across, Michael is now committed to the pitch
Showoff!

To 'get back on the horse' I lead the easy 5.7 third pitch up to the top. We ended up getting back to the cabin about an hour late, but this latest Dawn Patrol ranked right up there among our best!

Michael face climbing on the 2nd pitch of Canary
Michael, topping out on Castle Rock

Back at the cabin we met Kris, Kim, and Theron ( who drove over that morning) and headed down the Icicle Creek Canyon to climb the R&D route. Pictures to come....

Kim climbing up the 1st pitch of the R&D route
It's important to stop and smell and the flowers
Theron, Kris and Michael taking a break
Kris and Kim starting the 3rd pitch of the R&D route
Kim climbing up the steep handcrack on the 3rd pitch of the R&D route
Michael, Kris, Kim and Theron are all smiles after climbing the R&D route

Sunday afternoon we all drove over to Peshastin Pinnacles and Michael and Kim climbed the Tunnel Route and then Theron, Kris, Michael and Kim climbed Martian Diagonal while I took pictures and filmed it.

Theron leading the runout start of the first pitch of Martian Diagonal
Kris following on the 1st pitch of Martian Diagonal
Kris belays Theron on the 2nd pitch while Michael brings up Kim.
Kim about to finish the 1st pitch of Martian Diagonal
Michael, Kris, Theron and Kim having just climbed Martian Diagonal