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Sabre/Cat Burglar (5.4/5.6)

Leavenworth, WA

September 20, 2008


Captain Marvel graduated so we had a climbing weekend to celebrate in Leavenworth. Loren Miller and I drove over Friday afternoon and secured a camp site at the Johnny Campground while Andrew and Amy drove over later that evening. Orange-Marie drove over early Saturday morning and we all climbed Sabre on Castle Rock.

Loren and Orange-Marie climbed together, and Andrew, Amy, and I made up the second rope. Loren lead off on this spicy first pitch. Time and traffic have worn the ledges to a nice rounded shape and there are a few interesting runouts. Loren and Orange-Maire did great moving around the corner and making the balancy moves up the face to the corner.

Even though I climbed this earlier this Spring with Dan Zittel, I forgot to tell Loren that the second pitch continued up from the right hand side of the ledge. So he ended up climbing Cat Burglar instead, just like Dan and I had! Nice lead, Loren!

Andrew took the first pitch and lead up right behind Orange-Marie. Once he was at the belay, Amy and I climbed up. I forgot how balancy this first pitch is. Quite the challenging 5.4! Amy did great and soon we were all at the large ledge where Canary, Cat Burglar, and Sabre all continue up from.

I took the second pitch and climbed up the steep and block crack system to where the difficulty lessened. What a fun, three pitch climb. We had great views across the valley and down to the river far below. Orange and Loren had been waiting a while for us when we arrived at the top. We set up the camera for a timed shot and we got a nice one all together.

That evening back at the camp site, we braved the rain after dinner but ended up retreating to our tents. In keeping up with my "classic" attire, I had pitched my little orange pup tent that I've had since I was 7. It still keeps the rain out!

The next morning I got up early and drove back over to Seattle since I had to work at 11am. Loren, Orange-Marie, Amy, and Andrew climbed the classic 4 pitch R&D Route later that morning! Wish I could have been there! Thanks for a fun weekend!