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Today Alex, Mehrdad, and I climbed the West Ridge of Mt Thompson near Snoqualmie Pass. We started hiking from the trailhead a little before 7am. Even in my shorts and t-shirt I was comfortable hiking through the forest. It was going to be a hot day! Along the PCT I spotted lots of ripe huckleberries and wished that I hadn't left my skillet, stove, and pancake batter at home. We made our way out of the trees and crossed a large scree field below Kendall Peak. I had looked over at Kendall Peak from Snoqualmie, Lundin and Red Mountain, but today I was offered a view from the other side of the Commonwealth Basin.
I found this part of the PCT was especially beautiful at it wound its way along the ridge crest then along the impressive Kendall Katwalk. Here the stone turned into a brilliant white-ish color which almost looked like a fine granite. Soon we dropped down among Ridge and Gravel Lakes and said good morning to many back packers who camped along their shores. About a half mile later, as we traversed high above Alaska Lake, Alex spotted the drainage gully that leads up to Bumblebee Pass. I can see how it would be easy to miss this turn off. Once up the steep climbers trail we were rewarded with an impressive view of our objective looming still high above us across the meadow.
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We scrambled down the other side of the pass and geared up. Mehrdad and Alex were smart and brought smaller summit packs with them to take on the climb. I hadn't thought of that, but after I took out my rack, helmet and harness I just had my water and windbreaker left in my pack. So I decided to just take the whole thing along. Just like skiing, climbing with a pack makes you look like you know what you are doing! I remembered from Michael's earlier trip report that he had wished that he had brought his trekking poles with him on the climb to use on the descent. So I collapsed and strapped them on as well.
There was a small stream coming down from some unknown source to the west. We followed a faint trail that traversed up through the meadow near the stream. This allowed us to avoid the loose scree field for a few hundred feet. There was a cairn just as we entered the scree field, but it was the only one we found. So we picked a line up through the boulders that went to the left of the prominent outcropping of rock in the middle of the scree field.
Just below the ridge, we bypassed the chimney and scrambled up through the trees to the left which put us at a notch at the top of the chimney. I had the first pitch, so I made the leftward traverse and started up the semi-chimney. There is a large roof farther to the left with a chimney on it's right which I almost went up. But Alex directed me to the first chimney and easier climbing. This was only the first pitch and I could already see how easily it would be to get off route. There was some rocks that were loose, so I made sure to test every handhold and foothold before committing to them. Near the end of the pitch I spotted a row of trees below a black lichen covered slab and climbed up through them to the belay. The lichen almost made me go farther right but I remembered Alex's instructions for the pitch and climbed straight up. This more direct line prevented what would have been significant rope drag.
I brought up Alex on a 60m rope and then Alex brought Mehrdad up on a thinner 50m rope. We discussed having the 2nd and 3rd people climb simultaneously, but we all didn't have belay devices that allowed for easy twin rope belays. So the 1st person got to enjoy the scenery while the 2nd belayed the 3rd up. We had all day, so we were taking our time and enjoying the fun climbing.
Alex took the second pitch which ended at a small "airy" ledge. There was just enough room for three people comfortably. The second pitch offered numerous opportunities to get off route. We climbed straight up a shallow chimney and then continued up mid fifth class rock, working slightly to the right, and then back to left to center to where we could see the airy belay about 15 feet ahead. One last steep section lead to easy ground and the ledge.
Mehrdad lead the third pitch which started steeply up the face for about 20 feet and then it followed an easier ridge to the base of a large slab leading up to the left. I lead the short fourth pitch, making an easy but exposed ascending traverse across the slab to a notch at the base of the ridge. I couldn't find good gear placements here, so I ended up slinging a horn for me, and using a small cam for a directional. Once I belayed Mehrdad up, I was free to snap a neat picture of him belaying Alex up.
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Mehrdad lead the fifth pitch which required nearly the full length of our 60m rope. The pitch followed the ridge up to the false summit. Alex climbed second and then he brought me up on the 50m rope. Since the pitch was longer than the 50m rope I was climbing on, Mehrdad radioed down to me and told me to hold tight while Alex set up an anchor to belay from. The radios came in handy for this communication.
I lead up the easy sixth pitch which traversed left for 25 feet of low fifth class climbing then turned into a hike to the summit. Just as I started belaying Mehrdad up, I was surprised to hear a ringing coming from my pack. Evidentally I had forgotten to turn off my cellphone. I was surprised to get a signal so far back into the mountains, but Mt Thompson is pretty high for the area. Being a safe Mountaineer, I never talk on the cell phone while belaying, so I let the call go to my voice mail.
At the top we ate some food, drank some water, signed the summit register and took in the spectacular views. Some clouds had come in near Mt Rainier to the south, so we couldn't see Mt Adams. But Mt Baker, Glacier Peak and Mt Stuart were all clear and impressive. Mehrdad spotted an incredible waterfall coming down from a high lake tucked in front of Overcoat Peak, Chimney Rock, and Lemah Mountain.
To descend we scrambled down the east ridge to a rappel station and made three rappels down the shoulder. We followed the trail to the large notch where we carefully made a descending traverse down the loose scree to the meadow below and our waiting packs. After sorting gear and removing harnesses we said goodbye this beautiful meadow and started hiking back up to Bumblebee Pass. When we got back down the other side, the PCT looked like an interstate highway compared to what we had been on.
It had been a long day, so conversation was limited as we put our heads down and burned up miles on the trail. On our way out, we passed several backpackers heading in. A few weary hikers asked, "Are we getting close to the lakes?" It seems that there is no good way to answer these types of questions. If you are honest and say, "Not even close!" or if you fib and say, "Yeah, sure. Almost there!" someone is going to be disappointed. So I just smile and say, "Yep, you're getting closer".
Past the scree field near Kendall Peak, Alex pointed out the bend in the trail from which the rest is all downhill. To honor this wonderful waypoint, I composed a haiku:
Oh blessed corner,
How I love your good incline.
Lead me to my truck.
The way out always seems longer but we eventually made it back to the trailhead and the waiting truck. Thanks Alex and Mehrdad for a great day in the mountains!
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